Friday, June 17, 2005

Attacktix Base Repair 201 : Attacktix Autopsy II

Welcome back students. Today's class will build upon Dr. Manzo's Attacktix Autopsy Course, which can be viewed here...

Today I will tackle 2 'tix base problems. I had to perform operations on a few of my Attacktix and these are some of my findings.

Problem #1: My Base Will Not 'Tick'
I had a clone trooper that I opened just as a test out opening up the base before I operated on my Darth Vader (more on that later). The trooper was just a test subject. He didn't tick and I had no initial intention of fixing him. It happened on accident. Here's what I did...

To open up the base insert a sharp x-acto blade into the space between the two parts that make up the base on the bottom. Run the knife completely around the circle of the base. You will more than likely encounter 2 points of resistance. These points are where the glue is and it must be cut.

After you have run the x-acto knife around the base you will need to separate and remove the center part of the base. I recommend the smallest flat-headed screwdriver you can find. I used the screwdrivers that are used for fixing eye glasses or small electronics. You will have to work the inner section out, but be careful. I found that with too much pressure small white lines will begin to appear in the outer part of the base. These white lines are a prelude to a crack, and nobody want's that.

I found it's best to attack the inner base this way. On the bottom and on top (if you are looking at the printing on the bottom the right 'reading' way) you will notice a small tab that is attached to the outer ring of the base. Now, where this tab meets the inner part of the base is where you want to attack. The walls of the inner part of the base are tall and run the entire length of the base (and if you try to pry there you will get the white lines/cracking) except where there is a space for the tab. Here is a clear opening to the inside. With whatever tool you are using (remember the smaller the better) work the base at this area until you can move it enough to get your tool actually inside the base. With your tool inside slowly and carefully pry the inner base off.

See Dr. Manzo's post for more on this.

OK, let's get back to fixing the problem. Pay attention to the inner make-up of your base because you'll have to put it back together. Like I said, I had no intention of fixing my non-ticking Clone. He was just a test to see if I could open a base without messing it up. After I got him open I wanted to practice putting all of the parts back together. I put the Clone back together and gave him a test... and he WORKED!! I don't know what I did, or what was originally wrong. But I opened him up, took apart his base, put him back together and he worked again.

So to solve Problem #1: just open your non-ticking figure and play around. It may just be a simple miss-alignment that is keeping you from 'tix fun.

Problem #2: My Figure Keeps Dropping His C-Ring
I had 2 Armor Darth Vaders with this problem. I wrote off the first and gave it to a friend as a computer display piece. When my second Vader lost his ring I decided to take matters into my own hands. As Dr. Manzo stated in his autopsy lesson your 'tix will still work without his ring, but the ticking and color wheel (red/black top - white bottom) will be loose. I prefer my 'tix in perfect working order.

So, to fix this problem... take the base apart just like above. In the top part of the base (the part that is still attached to the figure) and you will see a small raised circle. Around this circle resides your rubber c-ring, and around that rides your color wheel. My solution was to crazy glue the c-ring to the small raised circle. Keep in mind that you want to keep this ring 'rubbery' so only glue the inner side of the ring to the circle.

Now you need to make some small adjustments to your color wheel. Since the c-ring is meant to move along with your color wheel and now it is stationary your 'tix base will freeze up if you don't adjust the color wheel. Take your x-acto knife and carefully scrape a small amount of plastic from the inner hole in your color wheel. Just a little bit. Keep checking how much plastic to remove by placing the wheel back around the glued c-ring and see if you can move it easily with your fingers. If it still seems too tight remove some more, but not too much 'cause that will make it loose and a loose wheel is the reason for this whole operation. If your wheel seems right to you, you are done. You may want to sand down the inside of the circle you were just removing plastic from. If you don't have sand paper handy I find that the non-blade end of a pencil-shaped x-acto knife works well for these small jobs. The end of which I speak is the silver tightening part that has a somewhat diamond pattern cut into it. Just run this back & forth and all around the inner circle.

Now, pop your base back together and test it out. Remember you don't have to glue it back together yet. Give it a good test and when you are satisfied reseal the base with some crazy glue & there you have it.

That's all for today class. If anyone has done other repairs on their Attacktix please share with the class.

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

I have a Anikin force blast from s1. It somtimes tix and some times it dosent. Any think I can do? please respond!